VOL.214 APRIL 2026
THE APPEAL OF YOSHOKU: JAPANESE-STYLE WESTERN CUISINE (PART 2) Metal Western Tableware Supporting Japan’s Yoshoku Culture

Example of a table setting featuring metal Western-style tableware
Photo: Tsubame Bussan Co., Ltd.

As Western cuisine took root in Japan, metal Western-style tableware such as spoons and forks was gradually adopted and refined in uniquely Japanese ways. At the center of this development lies the manufacturing expertise of Tsubame City in Niigata Prefecture.

The first Japanese company to engage in the full-scale production of metal Western-style tableware was Tsubame Bussan Co., Ltd., based in Tsubame City. SASAGE Kichiuemon, the company’s tenth-generation head, describes its beginnings as follows: “In 1911, my grandfather, received an order from a shop in Tokyo’s Ginza district for 36 sets of spoons and forks. At the time, spoons were called saji and forks were known as bibira,¹ and specialized utensils for Western cuisine were largely unfamiliar to the general public.”

Since the Edo period (early 17th to mid-late 19th century), Tsubame City has been home to artisans producing household goods and metal products, cultivating techniques such as tsuiki² (hammered metalwork) and has come to be known as a leading center of metalworking. Drawing on this craftsmanship, Tsubame Bussan took on the challenge of creating tableware essential to the Western dining table.

Among its most notable creations is the “Gekkeiju” (Laurel) series. The design features a laurel motif inspired by French Rococo style,³ with ears of rice from the Echigo region⁴ arranged at the center. First introduced in the Taisho period (1912–1926), the series has remained in continuous production and sale to this day, making it a long-selling classic.

“For approximately 100 years, neither the design nor the manufacturing methods have changed. The series has been used continuously since its early years at long-established restaurants considered pioneers of yoshoku (Japanese-style Western cuisine) in Japan, including Ueno Seiyoken.⁵

The groove along the back of the knife, known as the shinogi, and the deliberately matte finish on the blade surface, called medoshi, reflect traditional techniques passed down from French-style cutlery craftsmanship.” 

The “Gekkeiju” metal Western-style tableware produced 100 years ago (left). The same series continues to be manufactured today (right).
Photos: Tsubame Bussan Co., Ltd.

“Our tableware is based on the functional qualities of European silverware—knives that cut cleanly, forks that pierce with ease, and spoons that feel gentle on the lips. At the same time, we have always aimed to create utensils that combine functionality with beauty.”

True to SASAGE’s words, each piece of metal Western-style tableware is carefully finished by skilled artisans through multiple processes, including cutting, shaping, polishing, and inspection. Within every utensil lives the craftsmanship and refined sensibilities cultivated over many years.

Today, production of metal Western-style tableware in Japan is concentrated in Tsubame City, which is said to account for approximately 90 percent of domestic output. As a major center of production, Tsubame City continues to support dining tables across Japan.

“Just as yoshoku has been embraced at Japanese dining tables, dining itself has grown more diverse over time. Amid these changes, we believe it is important to preserve and carry forward the traditional craftsmanship we have cultivated, while also reexamining the utensils we create so that they better suit contemporary dining practices in Japan,” explains SASAGE.

“Moving forward, we hope to develop metal Western-style tableware that is even more closely attuned to changes in everyday life in Japan, such as spoons designed to scoop up rice more easily and forks that feel natural in the hand, while continuing to evolve the craftsmanship that has been nurtured and passed down in this region.”

• 1. An early Japanese term used when Western forks were first introduced to Japan. Because their pronged shape resembled a kumade (a rake-like tool used for gathering objects), they were reportedly called bibira, the Niigata dialect word for kumade.
• 2. A metalworking technique in which sheets of copper, silver, or other metals are shaped by hammering. In Tsubame City, it developed as tsuiki copperware, using copper sourced locally, and has long been applied to the production of everyday household items.
• 3. An ornamental style that spread primarily in 18th-century France. Characterized by graceful, intricate designs featuring abundant curves, it influenced furniture, architecture, and decorative arts.
• 4. A region corresponding to present-day Niigata Prefecture. Facing the Sea of Japan and known for its heavy snowfall, it has long supported rice-centered agriculture, while handicraft industries such as metalworking have also flourished.
• 5. A Western-style restaurant that originated in 1872 in Tsukiji, Tokyo. Its main location is now inside Ueno Park, offering yoshoku, French cuisine, and café services.

By KUROSAWA Akane
Photo: Tsubame Bussan Co., Ltd.