VOL.201 MARCH 2025
Traditional knowledge and skills of sake-making with koji mold in Japan The History and Characteristics of Traditional Mirin

In modern Japan, mirin¹ is commonly used as a seasoning in cooking. While there are various theories regarding its origin, it is said to have been enjoyed as a sweet alcoholic drink in the 17th century. We spoke with a mirin manufacturer to learn more about the history and characteristics of mirin.

ADACHI Yukari, a spokesperson at KOKONOE MIRIN Co., Ltd., a mirin manufacturer founded in 1772, explains the production process of mirin as follows: “Mirin is made from three ingredients: glutinous rice², rice koji³, and shochu—a variety from Kagoshima Prefecture known for its sweet, rich aroma and smooth depth of flavor (see “The Craft of Shochu Distilling in Kagoshima Prefecture: Creating a Sweet, Rich Aroma and Smooth Depth”). The process begins by steaming the glutinous rice, then mixing it with rice koji and shochu in the brewing stage, to create a mash (moromi). After that, the mixture is left to ferment for about two months, during which the enzymes in the koji break down the starches in the glutinous rice into glucose and proteins into amino acids, producing sweetness and umami—one of the five basic tastes, alongside sweetness, sourness, saltiness, and bitterness. Finally, the mash is pressed, separating the mirin from the mirin lees (kasu), resulting in the finished mirin.”

Mirin is now widely used as a seasoning in Japanese cuisine, but its origins are debated. Some theories suggest it was introduced from China during the Ming and Qing dynasties, while others propose that a sweet alcoholic drink existed in Kyushu, an island in the southwest of the Japanese archipelago, as early as the 15th century. 

“These two theories are commonly discussed. By the 17th century, it was enjoyed as a sweet alcoholic drink by those who did not like regular alcohol or by women, as noted in the Wakan Sansai Zue⁴,” explains ADACHI.

“In the 18th century, eel and soba restaurants began to thrive in Edo (modern-day Tokyo). As these establishments competed to offer the best taste, mirin, a sweet alcohol, began to be used as a seasoning instead of sugar, which was difficult to obtain at the time. It is noted in historical texts that mirin was used in eel sauce (unagi no tare)⁵ and soba dipping sauce (soba tsuyu)⁶. Historically, mirin was initially enjoyed as an alcoholic beverage and later used as a seasoning for enhancing the richness and umami of dishes.”

The main roles of mirin as a seasoning include adding sweetness, giving a glossy finish to the food, and eliminating odors. Recently, there have been new suggestions for using mirin as a seasoning in a wide range of dishes beyond Japanese cuisine, according to ADACHI. “We are proposing new ways to enjoy mirin, such as making sweets that highlight its refined sweetness or creating new liqueurs made by steeping hojicha⁷, which is a type of roasted green tea, coffee beans, or black tea in mirin.”

Additionally, with the rise of the Japanese food boom, the export of mirin as a seasoning to overseas markets has been thriving. “Actually, mirin was first exhibited abroad at the Fifth Paris International Exposition⁸ in 1900. At that time, it was exported as a liqueur. The history of mirin’s export overseas is long,” says ADACHI. 

How about taking a closer look at mirin, a seasoning made using traditional Japanese methods?

• 1. This article focuses on ‘hon-mirin’ (authentic mirin), which is classified as an alcoholic beverage under Japan’s Liquor Tax Law. It is important to note that there are mirin-like seasonings that are not alcoholic, such as fermented seasonings, and mirin-style seasonings with less than 1% alcohol content, which differ from hon-mirin.
• 2. Among rice varieties, those that exhibit strong stickiness and have a starch structure that is easily broken down into sugars.
• 3. Steamed rice that has been seeded with koji mold and allowed to develop and ferment.
• 4. An encyclopedia consisting of 105 volumes, compiled in 1712. It provides explanations using Classical Chinese and illustrations.
• 5. A seasoning used when grilling eel. It is typically made by heating a mixture of mirin and soy sauce.
• 6. A dipping or pouring sauce used when eating soba.
• 7. A type of Japanese tea made by roasting tea leaves over high heat. It has a mild bitterness and a distinctive roasted aroma.
• 8. The international exposition held in Paris, France, from April to November 1900, which attracted over 50 million visitors.