VOL.209 NOVEMBER 2025
ENJOYING JAPAN’S MARKETS The Development and Appeal of Japan’s Markets

A scene from the Mikoda Morning Market in Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture, where traditional charm is still preserved.
Photo: YAMAMOTO Shino

Markets where visitors can buy fresh agricultural and marine products directly from producers are held throughout Japan. We spoke with folklorist YAMAMOTO Shino about the history, development, and unique appeal of Japan’s market culture.


YAMAMOTO Shino  
Professor, Department of History and Folklore Studies, Faculty of Cross-Cultural and Japanese Studies, Kanagawa University. A folklorist specializing in the life histories of people involved in regular markets and itinerant trade, the history of travel, changes in tourism, and the folk traditions surrounding commerce. Her publications include the books Ichi ni tatsu: Teiki-ichi no minzokushi (Standing at the Market: A Folklore Study of Regular Markets) and Gyosho Ressha —<Kankan Butai> wo Oikakete— (The Peddler Train: Following the “Kankan Unit”).

To begin with, could you tell us about the characteristics of markets in Japan? How have Japanese markets developed over time, and are there any similarities with markets overseas?

In Japan, there were two types of markets: those that emerged spontaneously and those established periodically by authorities as logistics hubs. The markets recorded in historical documents are mainly the latter, with official markets such as Higashi no Ichi (the East Market) and Nishi no Ichi (the West Market) in Heijo-kyo1 serving as representative examples.

Spontaneously emerging markets are believed to have existed as long as people have lived in Japan. Those markets arose naturally at points where land and water meet—such as beaches and riverbanks—at road intersections, or where mountains meet villages. People from different environments would bring their goods respectively, creating opportunities for exchange and leading to the formation of markets. These markets were initially held irregularly, eventually becoming established and developing into towns. The fact that markets served as the origin of trade and the pattern for urban development is a phenomenon shared worldwide.

Another notable feature of Japan’s historic markets is the presence of a god within the market. Ancient records show markets named after trees, such as Tsubaichi2 and Atonokuwaichi.3 In Yamagata City, Yamagata Prefecture, and Aizuwakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture, daimyo (feudal lords) placed a stone representing the market god and held the market on designated days. As a surviving feature of this tradition, place names such as Nanukamachi (“Seventh Day Market”) and Tokamachi (“Tenth Day Market”) still exist, reflecting the market days on which these towns were originally held. Based on natural deity worship, trees, stones, and other objects were considered yorishiro4—vessels for divine spirits—and markets were opened to welcome the gods. Folklorists YANAGITA Kunio5 and ORIKUCHI Shinobu6 have noted that the word ichi (market) itself may derive from itsuku, meaning “to be in the presence of a god” or “to serve a god.”

The presence of a god in the market was considered necessary to ensure fair and free trade during the era of bartering, as it was important to seek the judgment of a god that everyone could accept. This practice reflects the wisdom of the people. The custom of enshrining a market god and opening the market accordingly continued from the medieval to early modern periods, and at times shugensha7 (practitioners of Shugendo) involved in the market.

As cities grew and permanent shops began to prosper, the need for regular markets gradually declined, leaving only special markets, such as those held during the New Year period, to continue.


The market god enshrined at the Hatsuichi (held annually on January 10) in Aizuwakamatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture.
Photo: YAMAMOTO Shino

There are significant differences between how towns developed in Japan and those overseas. In Europe, churches were built at the center of town squares, and the surrounding areas expanded outward from there. In contrast, in Japan, roads were regarded as public spaces; houses were built along them, and as the network of roads grew, towns took shape. Nevertheless, in both cases, it seems that the presence of a god served as a spiritual foundation supporting the development of the town.

In Japan, roads have long been regarded as public spaces—areas beyond direct political control—making them natural venues for markets where goods could be freely exchanged. A typical example is the Gairoichi (street market)  (See “Historic Street Markets Rooted in and Passed Down Through Life in Kochi,” in HIGHLIGHTING Japan November 2025 issue) in Kochi City, Kochi Prefecture. Among these, the best-known is the Sunday Market, a regular market held along the municipal road leading to Kochi Castle. It originated in the 17th century as a logistics hub established by the feudal lord and, through various changes over time, continues to thrive today.  


A scene from the Gairoichi in Kochi City, where shops line both lanes of the roadway.
Photo: YAMAMOTO Shino

What kinds of unique markets can be found throughout Japan?

Although Japan is not a large country, regional diversity is striking. Communities often formed around small basins, and crossing even a single mountain could mean encountering different languages, foods, and ways of thinking. Regional dialects and customs still persist today. From abroad, Japan may appear to be a homogeneous society, but in reality, it is highly diverse—a characteristic that continues into the present. This regional distinctiveness is also strongly reflected in local markets.

For example, Morioka City in Iwate Prefecture is home to the Mikoda Morning Market.8 This local morning market, where numerous farmers sell their produce, is also enjoyable for visitors from abroad. It began in 1968 when producers brought their goods in hand-pulled carts for on-the-spot sales. In 1977, it moved to its current location and adopted a covered structure. Open roughly 300 days a year, it is unusually long-running compared with other markets across Japan.

At the Mikoda Morning Market, old stoves are still carefully used, and on dark winter mornings, smoke rises from the stoves while vendors and visitors gather around them, chatting and socializing—a scene that preserves the market’s traditional atmosphere. I was once invited to warm myself by the stove, which gave me a firsthand sense of the unique warmth and friendliness found at a market.

At markets, visitors can find seasonal vegetables and locally produced agricultural goods rarely seen in regular supermarkets. In the Tohoku region,9 home to markets such as the Mikoda Morning Market and the Gojome Morning Market10 in Akita Prefecture, fall brings especially abundant produce, including wild vegetables and mushrooms. In this region, it is common to preserve these foods, and producers possess extensive knowledge of how to process foods for preservation and enjoy them.

At the Mikoda Morning Market, visitors can taste hittsumi,11 a traditional Tohoku dish, or even have their hair cut at the local barber. While many markets across Japan are in decline due to aging vendors and a shortage of successors, the Mikoda Morning Market remains vibrant thanks to the efforts of enthusiastic organizers. It has increased the number of vendors, adapted to modern times, and continues to value the producers who sustain it.


Hittsumi served at the Mikoda Morning Market.
Photo: YAMAMOTO Shino

Even when buying the same items, shopping at a market feels more exciting. Why do you think that is?

Markets are characterized by one-on-one interactions with vendors. Because farmers, local residents, and producers sell their goods directly, visitors can ask questions such as “How is this eaten?” or “How was this made?” Through these conversations, they can learn about local ways of handling ingredients and regional food culture.


Vendors and visitors enjoying tea at a vendor’s stall at the Mikoda Morning Market.
Photo: YAMAMOTO Shino

Each market has its own unique rules and customs specific to its community. Markets are primarily intended for local residents, so they are not places for bargaining like at a flea market. That said, as you engage in conversation with vendors, they may offer small extras or share useful tips. Understanding these rules and sensing the atmosphere while shopping is a part of the unique charm of a market.

Another characteristic of markets is that they operate only at specific times. Although the Mikoda Morning Market has permanent stalls, crowds gather only between 5 a.m. and 8 a.m. During this short period, both sellers and buyers gather all at once. Regular visitors and vendors at Mikoda have noted that they appreciate “relationships that aren’t fixed” and “loose connections that exist only for the moment.”

At one tea stall, so many people gather that it’s hard to tell the difference between a vendor and a visitor. They drink tea, enjoy conversations, and eventually drift away naturally—a scene full of relaxed social interaction. A similar atmosphere exists at Kochi’s Gairoichi, where they say people often form “market friendships,” knowing each other well through items they frequently purchase even if they don’t know each other’s names.


A customer interacting with a vendor at the Gairoichi in Kochi City.
Photo: YAMAMOTO Shino

There are many ways to relate to others. In one’s neighborhood or shopping district, close relationships are often necessary to maintain a stable community. In contrast, a market provides a space for social interactions that are free and unbinding. These loose, flexible connections, such as those found at a market, are thought to create a sense of comfort and reassurance. Having diverse ways of interacting and connecting with people, rather than a single, uniform approach, is important in life. Markets are not just places to buy daily necessities; they are also spaces where relaxed and pleasant social interactions can occur. This is the enduring charm of markets rooted in local communities, and the market as a form of commerce is likely to remain relevant well into the future.

  • 1.  The capital of Japan where the emperor resided from 710 to 784, during an era known as the Nara period. It was located in what is now Nara City, Nara Prefecture.
  • 2. One of the ancient markets, Tsubaichi, written with either the kanji 椿 or 海柘榴 (“Camellia Market”). It is believed to have been located in what is now Nara Prefecture.
  • 3. One of the ancient markets, believed to have been located in what is now either Osaka or Nara Prefecture.
  • 4. A medium through which a spirit or a god manifests; an object believed to attract a divine presence.
  • 5. Born in 1875, died in 1962. A founder of Japanese folkloristics and intellectual; also served as a government official.
  • 6. Born in 1887, died in 1953. A folklorist and scholar of Japanese literature; also a poet and writer.
  • 7. A practitioner of Shugendo, a Japanese ascetic and spiritual tradition based on mountain worship.
  • 8. A market held in Mikoda-cho, Morioka City, located about a 10-minute drive from Morioka Station in Iwate Prefecture.
  • 9. The northeastern region of Honshu, Japan’s main island, comprising six prefectures: Aomori, Akita, Iwate, Yamagata, Miyagi, and Fukushima.
  • 10. A morning market held in Gojome Town, Minamiakita District, Akita Prefecture, located about a 40-minute drive from Akita Airport.
  • 11. A traditional local dish from southern Aomori Prefecture to northern Iwate Prefecture, consisting of hand-pulled pieces of wheat dough cooked in a soup with various ingredients.

By TANAKA Nozomi
Photo: YAMAMOTO Shino

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